Perform Aprilaire Humidifier Annual maintenance like a boss!

Monday, April 22, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

For best performance, we recommend you replace the Water
Panel evaporator in your Aprilaire humidifier at least annually with
the exception of Models 400 and 400M, which should be changed at
least twice per heating season.

The “Change Water Panel” indicator light (Digital Control only) will blink
when it is time to change your Water Panel. See individual model instructions
for additional maintenance.

To purchase a new Water Panel:

• Visit estore.aprilaire.com

• Call the installer of your Aprilaire humidifier.

• Call your heating and air conditioning dealer.

• Use our “Dealer Locator” at: www.aprilaire.com

• Purchase only Genuine Aprilaire Water Panels to maintain best performance.

If your humidifier is equipped with a Digital Humidifier Control with Water
Panel change indicator, after replacing the Water Panel, turn the control
knob to the “Test/Reset” position until the “Humidifier On” light blinks to
reset its timer. (Blower must be operating and HVAC calling for heat.) Be sure
to turn the control knob back to it’s original setting. If the “Humidifier On”
light continues to blink, your humidifier is in Test mode. DO NOT LEAVE THE
CONTROL IN TEST MODE OR HUMIDIFIER WILL NOT OPERATE.

Also review the periodic preventavtive maintenance in the owner's manual.

Is there a way to regulate the water control on the Aprilaire model 700 humidifier?

Thursday, February 28, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
Is there a way to regulate the water control? I get a steady stream coming out of the drain line. Thank you!
 
Aprilaires' response:
 
Thank you for inquiring about your Aprilaire model 700 humidifier.

Your humidifier, when wired properly, will allow a stream of water to flow through the water panel only during the humidification cycle. If the humidistat is not requesting humidification, then the water should not be running through to the drain. The water flow rate into the model 700 is fixed to 6 gallons per hour, during the humidification cycle. The water flow down the drain depends on the evaporation effect within your environment, estimated between 4 to 4.5 gallons per hour.
 
Aprilaire - Division of Research Products Corporation
1-800-334-6011
Visit www.aprilaire.com
Hours Monday - Friday
7:00 a.m.- 5:00 p.m. CST
 

 

I love my Aprilaire model 700A but I have a GPM question.

Friday, February 22, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
Hello,

We had a 700A model humidifier installed about 5 months ago and it seems to work well. I am trying to find what the Gallons Per Minute (GPM) input is when the humidifier is running. I cannot find this information anywhere in the data sheets. It says that the drainage should be (as I calculated it from the FAQ) to be 0.05 to 0.1 GPM but not the input to the humidifier (I would assume this to be more than 0.1 GPM). What should the 700A humidifier be consuming in water input?

Thanks,
Nick
 
Aprilaires' response:

Hello Nick,

Thank you for contacting us. The feed rate for your humidifier is a 6 gallon per hour feed rate to the distribution tray. You should be able to fill a quart jar in 2.5 minutes to the distribution tray or fill a quart jar in 2 minutes 50 seconds for the water coming out of the drain of the humidifier. Is the humidifier mounted on the return or supply side of the furnace? Do you have a hot or cold water supplying the humidifier? The evaporative capacity for the humidifier is dependant on how much heat you are supplying to the humidifier. Supplying cold to a humidifier water mounted on the supply side get you a .75 gallons per hour evaporation, and supplying hot water to a humidifier mounted on the supply side gives you an evaporation rate of .9 gallons per hour. If you have any other questions please contact us at 800-334-6011. Thank you

 

Have had a Aprilaire model 560 humidifier since 1995 but looking for a new one, please help!

Wednesday, February 20, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
Could you please find us the square footage the model 560 aprilaire humidifier unit is rated for? I'm exhausted trying to find any 560 information, we have had this one since 1995. We're considering one of your larger, more modern units. Thank you.
 
Aprilaires' response:

Dear Rich,

Thank you for your email regarding your model 560 Aprilaire humidifier. The model 560 was discontinued in 2002 and replaced by the model 600. Both models will effectively humidity a tight home up to 4000 square feet with a .50 air change rate. As homes age they can become less tight and humidity can escape. We design all our Aprilaire humidifiers to maintain an indoor humidity level of 35% at an indoor room temperature of 70F anytime the outdoor temperature is 20F or above. The operating time of the HVAC system will directly affect the operating time of your model 560.
 

 

Can I run and Aprilaire 600 in manual mode?

Tuesday, February 19, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
I WAS WONDERING HOW TO RUN THIS UNIT IN A MANUAL MODE. I SEE HE LEFT A DOUBLE PRONG THING TAPED TO THE FURNACE THAT SAYS MANUAL ON IT BUT I DONT KNOW WHERE IT GOES. THANKS FOR THE HELP
 
 
Aprilaires' response:

Dear Randy,

Thank you for your email regarding your model 600 Aprilaire humidifier. Your model 600 can be set up as an automatic or manual control. In automatic there is an outdoor sensor connected to the control which will allow the control to automatically adjust the humidity level as the outdoor temperature changes. In manual mode you will need to adjust the humidifier control as the outdoor temperature changes. If not, you may over humidify your home. If you choose to run in manual mode simply remove the outdoor sensor from the terminals labeled odt and connect the manul model sensor instead.


Thank you for giving us the opportunity to be of service

 

Blower Motor Cycling Issue

Monday, February 18, 2013 by Customers Sharing Stories

Consumer feedback:

I have the Model 700 with the Model 58 humidistat. The problem I'm having is that the humidistat is callingtne furnace to start the blower motor I guess because the humidity has fallen below what it needs to be. However, the blower motor comes on for like 10 seconds and the shuts off. It will repeat this cycle 100 times a day so I have to turn the humidistat off. It generally only does this during the day because the thermostat is set to a temp that generally doesn't require heat. The HVAC guy has replaced the humidistat already with no success. My furnace is an Amana prane model. What's going on with this? Thanks

Name: Ken
City: Middletown
State: MD

 

Aprilaires' reponse:

Dear Ken,

Thank you for contacting us with regards to your model 700 Humidifier. Based on the information provided, it’s not clear how this humidistat has been wired. Normally, the model 58 humidistat does not have the ability to operate your furnace fan without an additional relay. It’s possible that this relay has not been wired properly. We would recommend that you have your HVAC guy contact us when he’s next on-site. We can provide troubleshooting assistance by phone.

We look forward to assisting you with this issue.

1-800-334-6011 Ext.6172
Call Center hours are M-F, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. CST
Visit www.aprilaire.com

Sand/Silt in my water, is that effecting my Aprilaire steam humidifier?

Thursday, February 14, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
I had installed about 4-5 months ago. I get a build up a yellow/brown sand / silt in the bottom which seems to clog the drain and causes the canister to leak from the top. I live in the Denver area (Lone Tree). I saw a post on another web site with a similar issue. Do you have a recommendation to fix? Maybe a sand/silt trap/filter upline?
 
 
Aprilaires' response:
 
Thank you for contacting us with regards to your model 800 Residential Steam Humidifier. What you're finding is the sediments in the water that are left behind as the water boils away. The exact nature of these sediments can vary by region. We don't have any specific recommendations for filters, but if you do choose to have on installed, do not use one that de-ionizes or de-mineralizes the water, such as Reverse Osmosis. Some amount of dissolved minerals are required for our unit to produce steam. The 800 uses the minerals in the water to pass current between two electrodes, and the fewer minerals in the water, the longer it will take to reach boiling. We would recommend that you consult your installer for recommendations on filters for sand, though.

Replacing an existing Aprilaire model 760 humidifier, couple of questions...

Monday, February 4, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
I want to replace the existing 760 model, however, due to the size to the furnace, it cannot be any larger than the existing unit. The current model 700 is about 2 inches higher so I can use it. What model would you suggest I use and what if any issues will I run into.
 
 
 
Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for contacting us regarding the replacement for you model 760 humidifier. If you are unable to replace the 760 with the 700 then you could use the model 600. The 600 is a bypass humidifier which operates slightly different than the 760 or 700. Where the 760 and 700 are power humidifiers that use an internal fan to add humidity to the air in the duct work, the 600 is a by pass unit that utilizes the HVAC blower to add the humidity to the air.

The 600 has similar capacities to the 700 and can provide humidity on a tight home with 8 foot ceilings of up to 4000 square feet.

Additionally, due to the differences in the installation, as well as the wiring of the humidistat control, we recommend the installation be done by a licensed HVAC contractor. When installed by a licensed contractor, the units come with a 5 year warranty beginning on the date of installation. If you choose not to use a licensed contractor you risk voiding the 5 year warranty.

If you have any further questions regarding this or any of our products, please feel free to contact our customer service department at your earliest convenience.
 
1-800-334-6011
Visit www.aprilaire.com
Call center hours are M-F 7am-5pm CST

 
 

 

I'm trying to decide between the 400, 600 and 700 Aprilaire whole house humidifiers? Please advise.

Wednesday, January 23, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

From: webmaster@aprilaire.com\



>>> Phyllis Kaplanek 02/20/12 15:21 >>>

Hello Dan,

Thank you for contacting Aprilaire.

Yes, the 400 does not drain, it will evaporate all of the water used.

The 600 uses no power, so would be less expensive to run than the 700.

When the 700 is operating, it is drawing air from the duct work, humidifies it, and blows it back into the duct work all in one spot. Also, yes, sometimes it has been reported that cold air would come out of the vents in the 700 during usage of the air conditioner.

It is difficult to offer 'utility expenses' since each home uses different amounts of water or electricity depending on the humidification needs.

Please let us know if you have any further questions.



Phyllis Kaplanek
Customer Service Specialist
Aprilaire - Division of Research Products Corporation
ptk@aprilaire.com
1-800-334-6011, ext 6181
visit www.aprilaire.com
Call Center hours are M-F, 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. CST


>>> Dan 2/18/2012 10:14 AM >>>
Name: Dan

Email: civdan@yahoo.com

Address: 7109 Marrisey Loop

City: Galena

State: OH

ZIP: 43021

Country: USA

Phone:

Product_type: Humidifiers

Model number: 700

Installation date:

Professionally installed:

Comments: I\'m trying to decide between the 400, 600 and 700 whole house humidifiers. I like that the 400 wastes no water and uses cold water. Does the fan in the 700 draw air in from the basement or is it sealed so it only pulls heated air from the duct? Would air conditioned air escape from the 700 into the basement during the summer?About how much energy does the fan use on the 700? Will this cost me like $20 more per year in electricity than the 600, for example? How much less would the 400 be in utility costs than the 600 or 700? Thank you!


The information contained in this e-mail and any attached document(s) is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



The information contained in this e-mail and any attached document(s) is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.

Can I install the Aprilaire humidifier above the cooling coil and still get the same efficiency from the unit?

Monday, January 21, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

From: webmaster@aprilaire.com



>>> Phyllis Kaplanek 02/21/12 09:01 >>>

Hello William,

Thank you for contacting Aprilaire.

Yes, you may install the humidifier above the cooling coil, or you may also install it on the cold air return duct. You really are not limited to where this unit can be installed. It would also be best to plumb hot water to the humidifier.

There is an 'orifice' installed into the water feed tube. The feed tube comes out of the solenoid, and brings the water into the humidifier, and deposits the water in the distribution tray at the top. The orifice is installed into the feed tube at the end that is inserted into the solenoid valve. That is the only metering device we have to monitor the water flow.

Please let us know if you have any further questions.



Phyllis Kaplanek
Customer Service Specialist
Aprilaire - Division of Research Products Corporation
ptk@aprilaire.com
1-800-334-6011, ext 6181
visit www.aprilaire.com
Call Center hours are M-F, 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. CST


>>> William Cape 2/19/2012 6:45 PM >>>
Name: William Cape

Email: mcape1622@att.net

Address: 1806 S 35th St

City: Manitowoc

State: WI

ZIP: 54220

Country: USA

Phone: 920-684-3607

Product_type: Humidifiers

Model number: 700

Installation date:

Professionally installed:

Comments: I would like to install a Model 700 Humidifier on my forced air gas furnace that has a cooling coil in the furnace. Due to the location of the cold air return ducts, I'm not able to locate the unit in the plenum in line with the coil as instructed in the manual. I would have to move the unit up above the coil to have enough room between the plenum and duct work. My question is --Can I install the unit above the cooling coil and still get the same efficiency from the unit? Also, does the solenoid on the unit control the 6GPM the unit used and is it preset to do that?


The information contained in this e-mail and any attached document(s) is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



The information contained in this e-mail and any attached document(s) is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.

 

Orfice, orfice where does the orfice go?

Friday, January 18, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
From: webmaster@aprilaire.com


>>> Phyllis Kaplanek 02/21/12 08:35 >>>

Hello Jeff,

Thank you for contacting Aprilaire.

The yellow orifice goes into the water feed tube. The end that the orifice goes into will be the end that is then inserted into the solenoid valve, at the outlet end of the solenoid valve.

Please let us know if you have any further questions.



Phyllis Kaplanek
Customer Service Specialist
Aprilaire - Division of Research Products Corporation
ptk@aprilaire.com
1-800-334-6011, ext 6181
visit www.aprilaire.com
Call Center hours are M-F, 7:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. CST


>>> Jeff Reiher 2/18/2012 4:40 PM >>>
Name: Jeff Reiher

Email: jeff.reiher@thomasrepro.com

Address: 3316 Country Wd Dr

City: Burnsville

State: MN

ZIP: 55337

Country: USA

Phone: 612-296-4426

Product_type: Humidifiers

Model number: 600M

Installation date: 2012-02-27

Professionally installed: N

Comments: I purchased my Aprilare 600M recently on line. It's all installed with one exception, where does the yellow orfice go? In the water supply line before the selenoid?


The information contained in this e-mail and any attached document(s) is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.



The information contained in this e-mail and any attached document(s) is intended only for the person or entity to which it is addressed and may contain confidential and/or privileged material. Any review, retransmission, dissemination or other use of, or taking of any action in reliance upon, this information by persons or entities other than the intended recipient is prohibited. If you receive this in error, please contact the sender and delete the material from any computer.

My Aprilaire humidistat is on the wall, where is it testing the humidity level?

Friday, January 18, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

Consumer question:

I installed my humidistat on the wall in my house and was wondering which location is more effecient / effective at reading the humidity level...on the wall or on the return duct at the furnace.

 

Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for your email regarding your model 700M Aprilaire humidifier. When the humidistat is installed in the living area it will control the humidity level based on the conditions in that specific area. If the humidistat is installed on the cold air return the humidistat will control the humidity level based on the humidity coming through the cold air return, This air is a mixture of all the air in your home. The humidistat can be located in either area. The desired location has to do with where you are most concerned with the humidity level.

 

When should my Aprilaire model 700 humidifier run?

Thursday, January 3, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
Since my model 700 was installed last winter, I've noticed it sometimes runs even if the heater isn't running. Also, sometimes, if the heater is running, the humidifier does not. It seems to run completely independently of whether the heater is running or not. Is this normal?
 
Aprilaires' response:
 
Thank you for contacting us. The humidifier does not regularly run independent of the furnace when wired to turn on and off with the furnace heat call. If you turned the humidistat down when the humidifier was running, does the humidifier turn off? If the humidifier stays on when the humidistat is turned down, then you would have a bad solenoid. If the humidifier turns off then you have a good humidistat and good solenoid.

Do you have a digital humidistat that you are controlling the humidifier with? The digital humidistat has a blower activation switch on it and you might have that in the on position. Turning the blower activation switch to the off position should solve your problem of the humidifier running in these different times.

If you have a manual control to wired to the humidifier, then you would need to have your service contractor trouble shoot the current sensing relay that would be wired between the humidistat and humidifier.
 
If you have any other questions please contact us at 800-334-6011. Thank you

 

My humidifier control is not working so well...what should I do?

Wednesday, January 2, 2013 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer questions:
 
The automatic control for my aprilaire model 600 is malfunctioning. To get it to work, I have to only move the knob slightly, but the next time the furnace kicks in, I will have to do this all over again. So basically, the unit is malfunctioning. What do I do?
 
Aprilaires' response:
 
Thank you for your email regarding your model 600 Aprilaire humidifier. The automatic humidifier control will operate your model 600 to achieve the set point the dial is set to. Once the set point is reached, the humidity level in your home has to fall below the set point before the humidifier control will again operate your humidifier. When you move the humidifier control dial to a higher setting, the humidifier will operate provided the furnace is running. This is normal operation. Based on the information you proved your automatic humidifier control is working as designed.

Does basement humidity have affect on my humidifiers operation?

Monday, December 31, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
Aprilaire model 500 humidifier installed on 2-stage 95% furnace. Sensor is located inside cold air return from house. Cold water to humidifier. Does basement humidity have affect on humidifier operation ie. humuduty levels in residence. Have dehumidifier in basement set at 40%. On setting five humidity in residence is 32-35% Setting 6 36-39% Is this normal? I think it should be higher. Humidifier works in test mode. Insight?
 
Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for your email regarding your model 500 Aprilaire humidifier. Your Aprilaire humidifier control measures the humidity in the cold air return which is the air coming back to your HVAC system from your entire home. A dial setting of 5 would be equivalent to an indoor relative humidity of 35% anytime the outdoor temperature is 20F or above and the indoor temperature is 70F. A dial setting of 6 would be equivalent to an indoor relative humidity of 40% anytime the outdoor temperature is 20F or above and the indoor temperature is 70F. We design our humidifiers to maintain 35% anytime the outdoor temperature is 20F or above and the indoor temperature is 70F. The actually humidity a specific home will vary due to the tightness and cubic footage of the home as well as the runtime of your HVAC system. In addition a humidity level higher than 35% may cause damage to home. This is because as the temperature outside drops, the air in your home may not be able to maintain a humidity level above or even equal to 35%. If the humidity level is too high for the current outdoor conditions, the result is condensation on your windows. This is described in the attached owners manual. Based on the information you provided it appears your mode 500 is performing properly.

 

New model 400, installed 8 days ago...but I'm still a little dry?

Monday, December 3, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
I had an Aprilaire 400a humidifier installed on my 3 story town home (1 1/2 years old) about 8 days ago. After adjusting settings on the unit, the humidity in my home peaks at approximately 27% at maximum settings and with the blower on.

This morning was the highest that the unit registered and that was 37% internal humidity, but it rained all night and the humidity outdoors was above 50%.

I have contacted the dealer/installer and they assured me that they're going to talk to their management to see if there's an issue, however I am told that it may just be because of my home.

I'm not sure if that's accurate, as my home is less than 2 years old and is tightly constructed. I went with the larger humidifier that they offered, however i'm concerned that reaching 27% humidity on max settings when it is 25-35 degrees outside is going to be an issue.

Any feedback you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
 
Aprilaire's response:

Thank you for your email regarding your model 400 Aprilaire humidifier. Any Aprilaire humidifier is reliant on the HVAC system to be operating in order to add humidity to your home. While your model 400 will add some humidity during a blower only call, it primarily is adding humidity during a heat call. If your heat call is short, then the humidifier will have a short operating time as well. Homes also will require time to build up the humidity level when a humidifier is first installed. Since your model 400 was only installed 8 days ago it may just take more time to raise the humidity level. At this point we would ask you to give it another week or two. Your home has had all winter to lose moisture and it will take time for the home to soak up moisture created by the humidifier.

 
 

 

Should my Aprilaire humidifier run ONLY when my furnace is running?

Monday, October 29, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
I have an Aprilaire model 700 and I assume it's normal to turn on my heater's blower in automatic mode to raise humidity? When I turn it down from 5 to 3, the blower doesn't turn off. Is that normal?
 
 
Aprilaires' response:
 
Thank you for contacting us regarding your model 700 humidifier. When installed and wired properly, the humidifier should only turn on after the blower has been activated due to a heat call or fan call from the thermostat. If your control has the optional blower activation function, it may extend the blower and humidifier run time after the heat call has been satisfied. However, if you are using the blower run extension, it should turn the blower off if you lower the humidity level. We may need more information to fully understand your particular situation.

Additionally, to better understand the functionality of your unit, you have the option to call our technical support department at 1-800-334-6011 to discuss it with one of our technicians over the phone.

If you have any further questions regarding this or any of our products, please feel free to contact our customer service department at your earliest convenience.

1-800-334-6011
Visit www.aprilaire.com
Call center hours are M-F 7am-5pm CST

 

Keep your Humidifier Running at Peak Performance by following these Annual Maintenance Tips

Thursday, October 18, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

For best performance, we recommend that you replace the Water
Panel evaporator in your Aprilaire humidifier at least annually with
the exception of Models 400 and 400M which should be changed at
least twice per heating season.

The “Change Water Panel” indicator light (Digital Control only) will blink
when it is time to change yourWater Panel. See individual model instructions
for additional maintenance.

To purchase a new Water Panel:

• Visit estore.aprilaire.com
• Call the installer of your Aprilaire humidifier.
This information is often found on your equipment.
• Call your heating and air conditioning dealer.
• Use our “Dealer Locator” at: www.aprilaire.com
• Purchase only Genuine Aprilaire Water Panels to maintain performance.

If your humidifier is equipped with a Digital Humidifier Control with Water
Panel change indicator, after replacing the Water Panel, turn the control
knob to the “Test/Reset” position until the “Humidifier On” light blinks to
reset its timer. (Blower must be operating and HVAC calling for heat.) Be sure
to turn the control knob back to it’s original setting. If the “Humidifier On”
light continues to blink, your humidifier is in Test mode. DO NOT LEAVE THE
CONTROL IN TEST MODE OR HUMIDIFIER WILL NOT OPERATE.

Also review the periodic preventavtive maintenance in the owners manual.

Harmful Effects of Mold

Thursday, October 18, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Harmful effects of molds

The type and severity of health effects that result from molds exposure is widely variable among different locations, from person to person and over time.

Although difficult to predict, exposure to molds growing indoors is most often associated with the following allergy symptoms:

  • Nasal and sinus congestion
  • Cough/sore throat
  • Chest tightness
  • Dyspnea (breathing difficulty)
  • Asthma (or exacerbation of it)
  • Epistaxis (nosebleed)
  • Upper respiratory tract infections
  • Headache
  • Skin and eye irritation

 

Indoor molds exposure leads mostly to upper respiratory tract symptoms

Long-term exposure to indoor molds is certainly unhealthy to anyone, but some groups will develop more severe symptoms sooner than others, including:

  • Infants and children
  • Elderly people
  • Individuals with respiratory conditions, allergies and/or asthma
  • Immunocompromised patients

Some indoor molds are capable of producing extremely potent toxins (mycotoxins) that are lipid-soluble and readily absorbed by the intestinal lining, airways, and skin. These agents, usually contained in the fungal spores, have toxic effects ranging from short-term irritation to immunosuppression and cancer. (Photo: Mold growing behind wallpaper)

More severe symptoms that could result from continuous human exposure to indoor mycotoxigenic molds include:

  • Cancer (aflatoxin best characterized as potential human carcinogen)
  • Hypersensitivity pneumonitis/pulmonary fibrosis
  • Pulmonary injury/hemosiderosis (bleeding)
  • Neurotoxicity
  • Hematologic and immunologic disorders
  • Hepatic, endocrine and/or renal toxicities
  • Pregnancy, gastrointestinal and/or cardiac conditions

It is important to notice that the clinical relevance of mycotoxins under realistic airborne exposure levels is not fully established. Further, some or much of the supporting evidence for these other health effects is based on case studies rather than controlled studies, studies that have not yet been reproduced or involve symptoms that are subjective.
(Photo: Black mold spores micrography)

Among the indoor mycotoxin-producing species of molds are Fusarium, Trichoderma, and one that, although less commonly isolated, became notorious during the past decade, Stachybotrys atra (aka S. chartarum, black mold). Between 1993 and 1994, there was an unusual outbreak of pulmonary hemorrhage in infants in Cleveland, Ohio, where one kid died. Researchers found that the kids’ homes had previously sustained water damage that resulted in molds contamination, and the quantity of molds, including S. chartarum, was higher in the homes of infants with pulmonary hemorrhage than in those of controls. (Photo: Stachybotrys growing on Potato Dextrose Agar (PDA))

It was this Cleveland event that initiated the headline news of Stachybotrys. The American Academy of Pediatrics produced guidelines in the wake of the outbreak. Other incidents involving kids in Stachybotrys-contaminated water-damaged school buildings have captured headlines as well, with children becoming symptom-free after being removed from those environments.
Article from the Fargo Forum newspaper, North Dakota (5/1/1997)

The role of S. chartarum in pulmonary hemorrhage in the Cleveland incident and in human health in the indoor environment is not clear though. There is not enough evidence to prove a solid causal relationship between S. chartarum and these health problems. Actually, in 2000 the CDC released two reports critical of the study conducted in Cleveland and concluded that the association between S. chartarum and acute pulmonary hemorrhage was not proven.

While case studies certainly indicate the possibility or even the plausibility of an effect from molds exposure, such studies by their nature cannot address whether the effect is common or widespread among building occupants. Results from studies that have not been reproduced may be spurious or have yet to be confirmed by well-designed follow up studies. (Photo: Moldy humid walls in a closet space)

In large epidemiologic studies, general symptoms have been associated with moisture damaged and presumably moldy buildings. Many of the reported symptoms are subjective and difficult to quantify. Results are confounded by the fact that the association is general, and mold is not the only possible cause of the symptoms. Neither condition proves that mold is NOT a cause.

In any case, molds growth in the indoor environment should be considered unacceptable from the perspectives of potential adverse health effects and building performance.

Dose-response

There is almost a complete lack of information on specific human responses to well-defined exposures to molds contaminants. There is currently no proven method to measure the type or amount of mold that a person is exposed to, and common symptoms associated with molds exposure are non-specific, aggravated by the facts that molds are present everywhere in the environment and that responses to exposure vary greatly among individuals. (Photo: Heavy mold growth on the underside of spruce floorboards)

There are no accepted standards for molds sampling in indoor environments or for analyzing and interpreting the data in terms of human health. Most studies are then based primarily on baseline environmental data rather than on human dose-response data. Neither OSHA or NIOSH, nor the EPA has set a standard or PEL for molds exposure.

Mold growth on air diffuser in ceiling
Miller et al. (1988) stated that it is reasonable to assume there is a problem if a single species predominates with >50 CFU/m3, that <150 CFU/m3 is acceptable if there is a mix of benign species, and that there is no problem when up to 300 CFU/m3 of Cladosporium or other common fungi is isolated. There is no source material to support these assertions, as few inhalation studies have been conducted.

References

American Academy of Pediatrics Committee on Environmental Health. 1998. Toxic effects of indoor molds. Pediatrics. 101:712-714. 11/23/03

Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. 2002. State of the Science on Molds and Human Health. 11/15/03

US Environmental Protection Agency – Indoor Air Quality – Molds. 11/15/03

Kuhn, D. M., and M. A. Ghannoum. 2003. Indoor mold, toxigenic fungi, and Stachybotrys chartarum: infectious disease perspective. Clin Microbiol Rev. 16(1):144-172. 11/15/03

Miller, J. D., A. M. Laflamme, Y. Sobol, P. Lafontaine and R. Greenhalgh. 1988. Fungi and fungal products in some Canadian houses. Int. Biodeterior. 24:103-120.

Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report – Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. 2000. Update: Pulmonary Hemorrhage/Hemosiderosis Among Infants --- Cleveland, Ohio, 1993-1996. 49(9):180-184. 11/17/03

Nelson, B. D. 2001. Stachybotrys chartarum: The Toxic Indoor Mold – APSnet. 11/23/03

What Types Of Mold Are Considered Toxic Mold

"Toxic mold" is a term that is used to describe types of mold that are considered deadly to humans. Most people believe that the name refers to one particular species of mold; however, it encompasses hundreds of species, a small fraction of which are not very harmful to the human body. Black mold is commonly used as a name for the most harmful mold species, which happen to be black in appearance. However, even molds of a different color can be toxic to the human body.

Any place that is dark and where there is an accumulation of moisture, is a potential breeding pool for mold. Mold can grown on almost any organic surface as long as moisture and oxygen are present. When large amounts of moisture build-up in buildings, or building materials mold growth will occur. It is virtually impossible to remove all indoor mold and mold spores, but it is possible to manage.

People are exposed to some amount of mold everyday. When mold is growing on a surface, spores can be released into the air where a person can then inhale them. A person who is subject to inhaling a large amount of these spores may be subject to some medical damage.

There are five categories of toxic mold. They are Cladosporium, Penicilium, Fusarium, Aspergillus, and Stachybotrys. Some of the species included in these categories may only cause hay fever-like allergic reactions, while others can cause potentially deadly illnesses. All five of these mold families can be found lurking indoors, in damp spaces. Each has its own particular characteristics that can greatly affect whatever organism or material it contacts. Indoor mold is not always obvious. Mold can manifest on hidden surfaces, such as wallpaper, paneling, the top of ceiling tiles, and underneath carpet.

Stachbotrys

The toxin produced by Stachybotrys chartarum is the most deadly. It has been tied to diseases as minor as hay fever, to those as serious as liver damage, pulmonary edema, and in the most severe cases, brain or nerve damage and even death. It has also been linked to severe illness in infants. Those with compromised immune systems, small children, and the elderly are highly susceptible to illness when they come in contact with this species of mold. Some symptoms associated with exposure to Stachbotrys include:
respiratory issues
nasal and sinus congestion
eye irritation
sore throat
hacking cough
chronic fatigue
central nervous system issues
aches and pains

Cladosporium, Fusarium, and Penicillium

These mold families have been connected to illnesses such as nail fungus, asthma, and also infections of the lungs, liver, and kidneys. Additionally, Fusarium may cause gastrointestinal illnesses, and even illness which affect the female reproductive system. Chronic cases of Cladosporium may produce pulmonary edema and emphysema.

Aspergillus

The least serious of the toxic mold groups, the Aspergillus mold family consists of over 160 species. Only 16 of those cause illness in humans, none of which are fatal if treated.

Toxic molds produce chemicals during their natural growth that are classified as toxins or poisons. The types that have been found to have profound effects on human health, are given the label of "toxic mold."

Toxic molds are all very dangerous if allowed to grow inside the home. Proper precautions should be taken to prevent and eliminate their growth. These measures should include eliminating every material that nourishes the molds, such as old remodeling materials left in a basement. Also, never try to determine the type of mold in your home. Contact a professional to test any mold colony you may find, and consult with your family physician.

Remodeling Your Home? Have You Considered Indoor Air Quality?

Thursday, October 18, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Remodeling Your Home? Have You Considered Indoor Air Quality?

Ventilation for Homes

In general, you should address the following issues when remodeling your home.

Radon

Lead

Moisture Control

Ventilation

Asbestos

Combustion Appliances

Air Ducts

Energy Efficient Improvements

Pest Control

Painting

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)

If too little outdoor air enters a home, pollutants can sometimes accumulate to levels that can pose health and comfort problems. Likewise, one approach to lowering the concentrations of indoor air pollutants in your home is to increase the amount of outdoor air coming in.

Outdoor air enters and leaves a house by: infiltration, natural ventilation, and mechanical ventilation. In a process known as infiltration, outdoor air flows into the house through openings, joints, and cracks in walls, floors, and ceilings, and around windows and doors (air may also move out of the house in this manner — this is called exfiltration). In natural ventilation, air moves through opened windows and doors. Air movement associated with infiltration and natural ventilation is caused by air temperature differences between indoors and outdoors and by wind. Finally, there are a number of mechanical ventilation devices, from exhaust (vented outdoors) fans that intermittently remove air from a single room, such as bathrooms and the kitchen, to air handling systems that use fans and duct work to continuously remove indoor air and distribute filtered and conditioned outdoor air to strategic points throughout the house. The rate at which outdoor air replaces indoor air is described as the air exchange rate. When there is little infiltration, natural ventilation, or mechanical ventilation, the air exchange rate is low and pollutant levels can increase.

Unless they are built with means of mechanical ventilation, homes that are designed and constructed to minimize the amount of outdoor air that can "leak" into and out of the home may have higher pollutant levels than other homes. However, because some weather conditions can drastically reduce the amount of outdoor air that enters a home, pollutants can build up even in homes that are normally considered "leaky."

Most home heating and cooling systems, including forced air heating systems, do not mechanically bring fresh air into the house. Opening windows and doors, operating window or attic fans, when the weather permits, or running a window air-conditioner with the vent control open increases the ventilation rate. Local bathroom or kitchen fans that exhaust outdoors remove contaminants, including moisture, directly from the room where the fan is located and also increase the outdoor air ventilation rate.

Ideally, new homes will be built to minimize leakage to control energy loss, improve comfort, and minimize the transport of moisture and pollutants through the building shell. These homes should then also have mechanical ventilation to remove pollutants generated in the home and provide outdoor air in a controlled manner. Whether a mechanical ventilation system makes sense in your existing homes depends on the house, your existing heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning (HVAC) system, and the changes you have planned. You should discuss this with your HVAC contractor. A local Weatherization office, or building performance contractor, might also be able to help you with this decision or point you to local experts.

How much ventilation do I need?

The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineering, or ASHRAE at www.ashrae.org provides procedures for determining whole-house ventilation rates in its Standard 62.2, "Ventilation and Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in Low-Rise Residential Buildings". The standard also provides requirements for exhaust ventilation for kitchens, bathrooms, and other point sources, such as clothes dryers and venting for fuel-burning appliances.