Do you want to improve the health of the air you breathe at home?

Tuesday, October 29, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

Here’s a great read from Jerry Kelly Heating & Air Conditioning, Inc. in Missouri:
Do you want to improve the health of the air you breathe at home? Find out why installing an air cleaner is one of the best ways you can do that! http://www.jerrykelly.com/blog/2013/09/why-is-an-indoor-air-cleaner-so-effective-at-protecting-your-health-and-your-air-conditioner/

What? You don’t want to buy 10 portable humidifiers and constantly refill the units with water? That’s crazy!

Monday, October 28, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

What? You don’t want to buy 10 portable humidifiers and constantly refill the units with water? That’s crazy! Check out this article from AirRite Air Conditioning about the top six reasons to get a whole-house humidifier. http://blog.airrite.com/2012/10/16/whole-house-humidifier/

Did you know plants can be used to improve indoor air quality?

Monday, August 12, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

Did you know plants can be used to improve indoor air quality? According to Mother Nature Network, several plants can filter out common volatile organic compounds. Learn more: http://www.mnn.com/health/healthy-spaces/photos/15-houseplants-for-improving-indoor-air-quality/a-breath-of-fresh-air

According to the American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology, triggers that can initiate an asthma attack...

Friday, July 12, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

Stat of the Week:

According to the American College of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology, triggers that can initiate an asthma attack include allergens such as pollen, dust, animal dander, drugs and food additives, as well as viral respiratory infections and physical exertion. Aprilaire whole-home air purification systems destroy 98 percent of airborne particulates down to one micron in size and are 40 times more efficient than a standard furnace filter. Learn more here: http://www.aprilaire.com/index.php?znfAction=ProductsCat&category=cleaner

Perform Aprilaire Humidifier Annual maintenance like a boss!

Monday, April 22, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

For best performance, we recommend you replace the Water
Panel evaporator in your Aprilaire humidifier at least annually with
the exception of Models 400 and 400M, which should be changed at
least twice per heating season.

The “Change Water Panel” indicator light (Digital Control only) will blink
when it is time to change your Water Panel. See individual model instructions
for additional maintenance.

To purchase a new Water Panel:

• Visit estore.aprilaire.com

• Call the installer of your Aprilaire humidifier.

• Call your heating and air conditioning dealer.

• Use our “Dealer Locator” at: www.aprilaire.com

• Purchase only Genuine Aprilaire Water Panels to maintain best performance.

If your humidifier is equipped with a Digital Humidifier Control with Water
Panel change indicator, after replacing the Water Panel, turn the control
knob to the “Test/Reset” position until the “Humidifier On” light blinks to
reset its timer. (Blower must be operating and HVAC calling for heat.) Be sure
to turn the control knob back to it’s original setting. If the “Humidifier On”
light continues to blink, your humidifier is in Test mode. DO NOT LEAVE THE
CONTROL IN TEST MODE OR HUMIDIFIER WILL NOT OPERATE.

Also review the periodic preventavtive maintenance in the owner's manual.

Springtime tips from the EPA

Thursday, April 4, 2013 by Aprilaire Team

Follow these tips suggested by the EPA, http://www.epa.gov/epahome/hi-spring.htm 

In your garden

A beautiful and healthy lawn is good for our environment. It can resist damage from weeds, disease, and insect pests. Pesticides can be effective, but need to be used according to the directions on the label and should not be relied on as a quick-fix to lawn problems.

Here are some tips to follow:

Develop healthy soil. Make sure your soil has the right pH balance, key nutrients, and good texture. You can buy easy-to-use soil analysis kits at hardware stores or contact your local County Cooperative Extension Service for a soil analysis.

Choose the right grass for your climate. If your area gets very little rain, don't plant a type of grass that needs a lot of water. Select grass seed that is well suited to your climate and other growing conditions such as the amount of sunlight and rain you lawn receives. Over-seed your lawn each Fall by spreading seeds on top of the lawn. A thicker lawn helps to crowd out weeds. Your local County Extension Service can advise you on which grasses grow best in your area.

Longer is Better. Make sure the lawn mower blades are sharp. Grass that is slightly long makes a strong, healthy lawn with few pest problems. Weeds have a hard time taking root and growing when grass is around 2½ to 3½ inches for most types of grass.

Water Early. It is time to water if footprint impressions stay in the lawn and do not spring back. Water early in the morning and only for short periods for time so the soil may absorb the water. Longer grass has stronger roots and retains water better.

Correct thatch buildup. Thatch is a layer of dead plant materials between the grass blades and the soil. When thatch gets too thick, deeper than 3/4 of an inch, water and nutrients are prevented from getting into the soil and reaching the roots of the grass. Overusing synthetic fertilizer can create heavy layer of thatch, and some kinds of grass are prone to thatch buildup.

Recycle grass. Don't pick up the grass clippings after you mow. Clippings will return nutrients and moisture to the soil. Consider buying a mulching lawn mower. This will cut the grass clippings finer and blow them into the lawn.

Let your lawn breathe. Once a year, remove small plugs of earth to allow air and water to aerate the grass roots.

Invite a few weeds and insects into you garden. Think of you lawn as a small piece of nature where pests have their place. Often, nature provides its own pest control in the form of birds or other insects that feed on the insects we consider nuisances.

Use manual tools. Tools that don't require electric or gasoline engines are especially handy for small yards or small jobs. There are hand tools available that will meet a wide variety of lawn and garden needs, like lightweight, quiet, easy-to-use reel push mowers that generate no emissions.


Using pesticides safely

If you decide that the best solution to your pest problem is a pesticide, follow these tips when selecting and using a garden product:

    Identify the pest problem
    Find the product that solves the problem
    Buy the right amount for your needs
    Read the label carefully and use the product the right way
    Pay attention to warnings
    Prevent harm to the environment - never pour lawn and garden products down a drain

Spring Cleaning


If you are going to be doing some spring cleaning, take a look around your house for items that present environmental hazards when they are improperly disposed of. Leftover household products that contain corrosive, toxic, ignitable, or reactive ingredients are considered to be "household hazardous waste" or "HHW." Products, such as paints, cleaners, oils, batteries, and pesticides, that contain potentially hazardous ingredients require special care when you dispose of them.

Heating and cooling


Is your home's cooling equipment more than 10 years old? If so, EPA encourages you to have your current system inspected for energy performance by a professional contractor before their busy summer season hits.

If it's time for a replacement, be sure to choose equipment that has earned the ENERGY STAR for high efficiency.
If it's not yet time to replace, have your contractor perform routine annual maintenance on your system to make sure it will efficiently and comfortably carry you through the hot summer months without costing you more than necessary.
 

Blower Motor Cycling Issue

Monday, February 18, 2013 by Customers Sharing Stories

Consumer feedback:

I have the Model 700 with the Model 58 humidistat. The problem I'm having is that the humidistat is callingtne furnace to start the blower motor I guess because the humidity has fallen below what it needs to be. However, the blower motor comes on for like 10 seconds and the shuts off. It will repeat this cycle 100 times a day so I have to turn the humidistat off. It generally only does this during the day because the thermostat is set to a temp that generally doesn't require heat. The HVAC guy has replaced the humidistat already with no success. My furnace is an Amana prane model. What's going on with this? Thanks

Name: Ken
City: Middletown
State: MD

 

Aprilaires' reponse:

Dear Ken,

Thank you for contacting us with regards to your model 700 Humidifier. Based on the information provided, it’s not clear how this humidistat has been wired. Normally, the model 58 humidistat does not have the ability to operate your furnace fan without an additional relay. It’s possible that this relay has not been wired properly. We would recommend that you have your HVAC guy contact us when he’s next on-site. We can provide troubleshooting assistance by phone.

We look forward to assisting you with this issue.

1-800-334-6011 Ext.6172
Call Center hours are M-F, 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. CST
Visit www.aprilaire.com

Keep your Humidifier Running at Peak Performance by following these Annual Maintenance Tips

Thursday, October 18, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

For best performance, we recommend that you replace the Water
Panel evaporator in your Aprilaire humidifier at least annually with
the exception of Models 400 and 400M which should be changed at
least twice per heating season.

The “Change Water Panel” indicator light (Digital Control only) will blink
when it is time to change yourWater Panel. See individual model instructions
for additional maintenance.

To purchase a new Water Panel:

• Visit estore.aprilaire.com
• Call the installer of your Aprilaire humidifier.
This information is often found on your equipment.
• Call your heating and air conditioning dealer.
• Use our “Dealer Locator” at: www.aprilaire.com
• Purchase only Genuine Aprilaire Water Panels to maintain performance.

If your humidifier is equipped with a Digital Humidifier Control with Water
Panel change indicator, after replacing the Water Panel, turn the control
knob to the “Test/Reset” position until the “Humidifier On” light blinks to
reset its timer. (Blower must be operating and HVAC calling for heat.) Be sure
to turn the control knob back to it’s original setting. If the “Humidifier On”
light continues to blink, your humidifier is in Test mode. DO NOT LEAVE THE
CONTROL IN TEST MODE OR HUMIDIFIER WILL NOT OPERATE.

Also review the periodic preventavtive maintenance in the owners manual.

Remodeling Your Home? Have You Considered Indoor Air Quality?

Thursday, October 18, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Remodeling Your Home? Have You Considered Indoor Air Quality?

Ventilation for Homes

In general, you should address the following issues when remodeling your home.

Radon

Lead

Moisture Control

Ventilation

Asbestos

Combustion Appliances

Air Ducts

Energy Efficient Improvements

Pest Control

Painting

Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs)

If too little outdoor air enters a home, pollutants can sometimes accumulate to levels that can pose health and comfort problems. Likewise, one approach to lowering the concentrations of indoor air pollutants in your home is to increase the amount of outdoor air coming in.

Outdoor air enters and leaves a house by: infiltration, natural ventilation, and mechanical ventilation. In a process known as infiltration, outdoor air flows into the house through openings, joints, and cracks in walls, floors, and ceilings, and around windows and doors (air may also move out of the house in this manner — this is called exfiltration). In natural ventilation, air moves through opened windows and doors. Air movement associated with infiltration and natural ventilation is caused by air temperature differences between indoors and outdoors and by wind. Finally, there are a number of mechanical ventilation devices, from exhaust (vented outdoors) fans that intermittently remove air from a single room, such as bathrooms and the kitchen, to air handling systems that use fans and duct work to continuously remove indoor air and distribute filtered and conditioned outdoor air to strategic points throughout the house. The rate at which outdoor air replaces indoor air is described as the air exchange rate. When there is little infiltration, natural ventilation, or mechanical ventilation, the air exchange rate is low and pollutant levels can increase.

Unless they are built with means of mechanical ventilation, homes that are designed and constructed to minimize the amount of outdoor air that can "leak" into and out of the home may have higher pollutant levels than other homes. However, because some weather conditions can drastically reduce the amount of outdoor air that enters a home, pollutants can build up even in homes that are normally considered "leaky."

Most home heating and cooling systems, including forced air heating systems, do not mechanically bring fresh air into the house. Opening windows and doors, operating window or attic fans, when the weather permits, or running a window air-conditioner with the vent control open increases the ventilation rate. Local bathroom or kitchen fans that exhaust outdoors remove contaminants, including moisture, directly from the room where the fan is located and also increase the outdoor air ventilation rate.

Ideally, new homes will be built to minimize leakage to control energy loss, improve comfort, and minimize the transport of moisture and pollutants through the building shell. These homes should then also have mechanical ventilation to remove pollutants generated in the home and provide outdoor air in a controlled manner. Whether a mechanical ventilation system makes sense in your existing homes depends on the house, your existing heating, ventilation, and air-conditioning (HVAC) system, and the changes you have planned. You should discuss this with your HVAC contractor. A local Weatherization office, or building performance contractor, might also be able to help you with this decision or point you to local experts.

How much ventilation do I need?

The American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air-Conditioning Engineering, or ASHRAE at www.ashrae.org provides procedures for determining whole-house ventilation rates in its Standard 62.2, "Ventilation and Acceptable Indoor Air Quality in Low-Rise Residential Buildings". The standard also provides requirements for exhaust ventilation for kitchens, bathrooms, and other point sources, such as clothes dryers and venting for fuel-burning appliances.

Mechanical Ventilation

Thursday, October 18, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

The Need for Mechanical Ventilation

History of Ventilation in Houses
Houses need to have an indoor/outdoor exchange of air to replenish oxygen used by the occupants and to remove pollutants generated by breathing, household activities and emissions from building materials and furnishings. For many years, houses were constructed without mechanical ventilation systems and relied on air leakage through the building envelope to provide this indoor/ outdoor air exchange during the winter months.

In the past, this natural form of ventilation worked fairly well. Houses built before the 1960s tended to be quite leaky and pressure differences between the inside and outside, caused by wind or temperature difference, were sufficient to provide a significant amount of air exchange most of the time. However, a leaky building envelope does not always guarantee adequate air exchange. The movement of air requires both a pathway (e.g., a leak) and a pressure difference, and even a leaky house will experience periods when there is no indoor/outdoor air exchange. These periods are most likely to occur during the spring or fall, when winds are light and there is little or no indoor/outdoor temperature difference that can create a stack effect. The leakier the house, however, the less frequent the periods of inadequate air exchange.

Since most fuel-fired systems consume air from the house, and this air must then be replaced by leakage from outdoors, the operation of fuel-fired systems promotes some indoor/outdoor air exchange. The chimneys associated with these systems also provide a major leakage point, thus promoting air exchange even when the heating system is not operating. As well, a chimney tends to raise the level of the neutral pressure plane, thus reducing the outward pressure difference across the building envelope and, with it, the potential for interstitial condensation (i.e., condensation that occurs within the building envelope) caused by air leaking out of the house.

In houses built prior to the 1960s, the amount of air exchange provided by leakage was generally regarded as sufficient. But in the '60s, a number of factors changed this picture, including the increased use of electric heating in houses. Unlike fuel-fired systems, electric heating systems do not require the replacement of air, nor do they require chimneys. Consequently, electrically heated houses have a greater tendency to experience high humidity levels, interior surface moulds and interstitial condensation.

In the early 1970s, in response to these problems associated with electrically heated houses, Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation (CMHC) took the step of requiring all NHA-financed electrically heated houses to incorporate exhaust fans, a requirement that was eventually incorporated into the National Building Code. By the mid-70s, these problems had became so apparent that CMHC contemplated not allowing electric heating in houses financed under its National Housing Act mortgage insurance program.

In addition to the increase in the use of electric heating, the 1960s brought the construction of houses that were much more airtight as a result of new products and practices, which included the substitution of panel sheathings, such as plywood and waferboard, for board sheathing; the replacement of paper-backed insulation batts by friction-fit batts and polyethylene film; improved caulking materials; tighter windows and doors; and more efficient heating systems.

When the energy crisis developed in the early 1970s, considerable emphasis was placed on reducing air leakage in order to conserve energy. The use of electric heating systems was encouraged and higher efficiency furnaces were developed further reducing airchange rates in buildings. This trend towards greater airtightness and higher efficiency furnaces gave rise to concerns that the exchange of air in houses by natural means might be insufficient in some instances to provide adequate air quality thus increasing the risk of health problems among the occupants. Condensation problems resulting from higher humidity levels were also a concern.

How Much Indoor/Outdoor Air Exchange Is Necessary?
The air-change needs of houses are not uniform. Not only do they vary from house to house according to the number of occupants, and the presence and strength of various pollutant sources, but, for any given house, they also vary with time as occupants come and go, and pollutant sources wax and wane. Nevertheless, ASHRAE Standard 62, Canadian Standards Association Standard CAN/CSA-F326 and the National Building Code of Canada (NBC) have all established levels of air change that can be expected to meet the peak or near-peak needs of a majority of normal households. (The latter two are based to some extent on ASHRAE Standard 62.)

All three approaches suggest an air change rate of about 0.3 air changes per hour (ach). This is the level of air change used internationally as the norm in terms of analyzing the success of various ventilation schemes. Again, it is recognized that few, if any, houses require constant air change at the rate of 0.3 ach. However, if a house is so tight that leakage fails to provide this level of air change for significant periods of time, it is likely that many such periods of shortfall will coincide with periods when this level of air change is required. When this happens, poor indoor air quality, high humidity, surface moulds and interstitial condensation can result.

How Airtight Are Recently Built Houses?
In 1989, a study to determine the airtightness of recently constructed houses in various regions of Canada was conducted. Airtightness was measured by carrying out fan-depressurization tests on nearly 200 houses throughout the country. The test results were analyzed to estimate the indoor/outdoor air change rate that could be attributed solely to the air leakage likely to be experienced by each house over a typical heating season. The results of the study allowed the researchers to make the following predictions:

  • More than 70% of the surveyed houses would have an average air-leakage rate of less than 0.3 ach over the entire heating season.
  • Almost 90% of the surveyed houses would have at least one month during the heating season when the average air-leakage rate was less than 0.3 ach.
  • Virtually all of the surveyed houses (99%) would have at least one 24-hour period over the heating season in which the average air-leakage rate was less than 0.3 ach.

These results seem to indicate that a majority of houses being built in Canada using normal construction practices are close enough to being airtight that air leakage through the envelope cannot be relied on to provide the rate of air change deemed necessary to maintain adequate indoor air quality in a typical household. While the rate of air change through the building envelope may be adequate most of the time, it may not be all of the time. Therefore, to ensure that a satisfactory rate of air change is attainable at all times throughout the heating season, these houses must be provided with mechanical ventilation systems.

Characteristics of an Ideal Mechanical Ventilation System

Currently available technology is not able to provide an ideal mechanical ventilation system for houses. But before looking at the methods of mechanically ventilating houses that are available today, it is helpful to identify the characteristics of an ideal system:

Operate when needed
The system would operate whenever additional indoor/outdoor air exchange is needed and would do so without the need for occupant intervention.

Operate only when needed
This is important since a mechanical ventilation system has costs associated with it — the cost of the electricity to run it and the cost of heating the outdoor air that the system brings in. (The latter can be reduced by incorporating heat-recovery capabilities in the system, but cannot be eliminated altogether.) Therefore, the system should not operate during those periods when no indoor/ outdoor air exchange is required. The length, timing and frequency of such periods vary from household to household. Air exchange is not required when:

  • there are no occupants in the house
  • there are no activities or processes underway that generate pollutants
  • there is sufficient air exchange due to wind or stack effect to meet the household's needs.

Provide needed amount of air exchange
The system would be able to deliver enough outdoor air to meet the probable maximum needs of the household. It would also be capable of modulating delivery so that it did not deliver more outdoor air than required at times of reduced need. A system that does not have this capability is likely to provide too much outdoor air most of the time it is in operation, resulting in excess energy costs and low humidity. As well, a system that is unresponsive can annoy the occupants, possibly to the point that they simply turn it off altogether.

Distribute outdoor air where needed
It is not enough that the mechanical ventilation system change the air in the house as a whole to meet the standard of 0.3 ach. The system must also be able to deliver the outdoor air to those parts of the house where the occupants are likely to spend most of their time — the living room, the kitchen and the bedrooms.

Be quiet
The system would be quiet enough so that the occupants would not be tempted to turn it off to reduce noise.

Not interfere with other systems
There is significant potential for mechanical ventilation systems to interfere with the operation of other systems, such as certain types of fuel-fired heating systems. Under these circumstances, if the ventilation system creates a high negative pressure in the house, the products of combustion (which can be harmful to the occupants) can spill into the house rather than flowing up the chimney to the outdoors.

Not interfere with the building envelope
The system would not create significant positive pressure in the house since this could drive humid air from the house through the building envelope, resulting in interstitial condensation.

Demand-Controlled Ventilation

The first two characteristics of the ideal mechanical ventilation system described above are related to the issue of control. A system that embodies these characteristics is known as a "demand-controlled ventilation system." Such a system would ideally be controlled by an array of sensors — one for humidity and one for every possible pollutant that the ventilation system would have to respond to, including carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, formaldehyde, volatile organic compounds, etc. The system would bring in outdoor air and/or extract indoor air until all of these sensors determined that specific pollutants were at, or below, predetermined safe levels. Whenever a sensor detected a pollutant above its safe level, the ventilation system would operate.

A less-than-ideal demand-controlled ventilation system would have at least one sensor. For example, many ventilation systems are controlled by dehumidistats: the system operates until the dehumidistat has determined that the humidity in the house is at a safe level. Excess humidity is one of the main reasons that ventilation is required, but not the only one. The amount of ventilation required to control humidity may not be sufficient to control other pollutants since this depends on the activities of the occupants, on the relative strengths of other pollutants and on the level of humidity.

Carbon dioxide (CO2) sensors are sometimes used to control ventilation systems in large buildings, and this technology is just now becoming available for residential use. Increasing CO2 concentration is usually a good indicator of decreasing air quality but it may not be adequate in cases where there are unusual pollutants, such as those generated by certain hobbies.

The ideal system requires the full array of sensors mentioned above. However, at present this ideal is not attainable because:

- there is insufficient knowledge and information to determine

- which pollutants should be monitored, and

- what the acceptable levels for a particular pollutant

- practical, reliable and economical detectors for all pollutants of concern are not available.

While research and development is underway in many countries to try to address these issues, breakthroughs are not expected in the near future.

For a discussion of current approaches to mechanical ventilation systems for houses, please see Construction Technology Update No. 15.

References

1. ASHRAE 62-1989, Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality. American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers, Atlanta, GA.

2. Standard CAN/CSA-F326-M91, Residential Mechanical Ventilation Systems. Canadian Standards Association, Etobicoke, ON.

3. National Building Code of Canada, 1995. Canadian Commission on Building and Fire Codes, National Research Council of Canada, Ottawa.

4. 1989 Survey of Airtightness of New, Merchant Builder Houses. Haysom, J.C., Reardon, J.T., and R. Monsour. Indoor Air '90: The Fifth International Conference on Indoor Air Quality and Climate, v. 4, Toronto, 1990.

5. Residential Air System Design. Heating Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Institute of Canada (HRAI), Islington, ON, 1986.

6. Complying with Residential Ventilation Requirements in the 1995 National Building Code. Canada Mortgage and Housing Corporation, Ottawa, 1996.

7. Airtightness and Energy Efficiency of New Conventional and R-2000 Housing in Canada, 1997. Canada Centre for Mineral and Energy Technology, Natural Resources Canada, Ottawa

My Aprilaire model 760 humidifier that has worked great for the last 11 years has a short

Thursday, May 10, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Consumer question:

My Aprilaire model 760 humidifier that has worked great for the last 11 years has a short that apparently cannot be repaired. So what would it cost to get a new one that will fit my furnace exactly like my 760 did. Also the cost of a new one, or can mine be sent in for repair.

 

Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for using Aprilaire products in your home comfort system.

I am sorry to hear that your model 760 has failed after 11 years of service. I am please to let you know that you local heating and air conditioning company can assist you in obtaining a replacement for your model 760. Our current model 700 humidifier would replace the model 760 for area coverage, the dimensional size may vary slightly.

 

No water comes in to the model 500 aprilaire humidifier when running. What could be happening?

Wednesday, May 9, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
No water comes in to the model 500 aprilaire humidifier when running. Could it be a problem with the solenoid valve??


Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for contacting us.
No water could be an indication of an issue with the solenoid valve.
If you have an Automatic Control try putting it into test mode:

A. No click at the solenoid valve indicates an electrical problem. Contact the heating and air conditioning dealer to further check the electrical components of the Aprilaire Humidifier.

B. If the solenoid valve makes a click sound and there is no water draining from the unit, this would indicate the flow of water is being obstructed.

1. To determine if water flow is being obstructed, turn the dial of the humidifier control to the off position. The first location to check for an obstruction would be at the saddle valve located on the water line supplying water to the humidifier. When checking the saddle valve, make sure it is completely open. This can be done by turning the valve all the way to the left. If anything is clogged, it can be dislodged by turning the saddle valve all the way to the right and back to the left. Once this is done, turn the humidifier control dial above the click point and water should be coming out the drain line.

2. If water is still not coming out of the drain, check the orifice and in-line strainer to make sure they are not clogged. The orifice is located in the tube on the outlet side of the solenoid valve and the in-line strainer is located on the inlet side of the solenoid valve (see attached). The orifice may be cleared by inserting a needle through the small opening. The strainer may be cleaned by running it under warm water to dislodge deposits or replace it. After clearing and re-installing the orifice and strainer (be sure to double wrench all water connections), turn the humidifier control dial above the click point and water should be coming out the drain line.

 

What is the minimum water temperature to supply an Aprilaire 350 humidifier?

Tuesday, May 8, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
What's the minimum water temperature needed to supply this Aprilaire model 350 humidifier unit? We want to reduce the water temp for the summer so it doesn't heat the house while it runs. Here in Denver we still need the moisture all year around.

By the way, do you make a in-the wall ultrasonic unit with a humidistat, that can run from filtered water that removes minerals and chlorine?
 
 
Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for your email regarding your model 350 Aprilaire humidifier. The minimum water temperature for our self contained humidifiers is 140F. This is required in order for the evaporation process to take place. When the hot water flows over the water panel, the water evaporates off the water panel and into the room temperature air moving through the water panel. Lowering the water temperature will reduce the amount of humidification produced. The water to the humidifier can be hard or softened but should not be from a reverse osmosis system. We do not manufacture ultrasonic humidifiers.

 

What is the replacement for the 2120/2140?

Monday, May 7, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:

We had our A/C system replaced last year. We had an Aprilaire filter system installed at the recommendation of the contractor. He said that the filters were Aprilaire 2120/2140 and a Humidifier Panel 400. What is your current replacement for these. I do not see them on any site selling your product.

Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for contacting us regarding replacement media for your Aprilaire products. The models 2120 and 2140 are two different air cleaners and would take different filter media. Please follow the links below for more information on the filter media for the two air cleaners:

http://estore.aprilaire.com/catalog/air-cleaners/model-2120-parts
and
http://estore.aprilaire.com/catalog/air-cleaners/model-2140-parts

Furthermore, please follow the link or navigate through the estore for information on the replacement water panels for the model 400 humidifier:

http://estore.aprilaire.com/catalog/humidifiers/model-400-series-parts/254

If you have any further questions regarding this or any of our products, please feel free to contact our customer service department at your earliest convenience.

 

I need humidity in the Summer, what should I do?

Wednesday, April 25, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
My heating/air cool unit is now controlled by a new thermostat that allows fan circulation about 35% of the time whether the heat or cooling is running or not. Will the humidifier work when the fan is on whether it is on heating or cooling? I live in an area which humidity averages about 12% during the summer. I need to add humidity during those times.
 
 
Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for that very good question regarding the Aprilaire humidifier operation.

The answer to your question depends on the type of humidity control that was installed with the humidifier. In the event that the humidity control was the type that used an outdoor temperature sensor to regulate the humidity, then the humidifier would not add humidity in the summer months. this type of control would disable the humidifier when the outdoor temperature would go above 60 degrees. If the humidity control does not use the outdoor temperature sensor, then you may be able to humidify during the summer months. Just be aware that the air conditioning system will remove some humidity during its normal operation; which would take longer to bring the humidity level up.

 

Aprilaire 10 Year Clean Coil Commitment

Friday, April 20, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Aprilaire Air Cleaners are so effective at removing particles and contaminants that are harmful to your family and your HVAC equipment, we offer this guarantee.  Should your new indoor air conditioning coil require professional cleaning in the next 10 years while properly using an Aprilaire Air Cleaner, we will pay $100 toward the cost of having the indoor coil cleaned by a licensed contractor.

This commitment applies to new HVAC equipment with a new indoor air conditioner coil (less than six months old) installed with an Aprilaire Air Cleaner.  The Aprilaire Air Cleaner must be installed by a licensed HVAC contractor.  The Aprilaire Air Cleaner must be properly maintained as per directions in the owner's manual including use of only Aprilaire brand media replacement.   Click to view Aprilaire's Clean Coil Commitment.

Aprilaire Humidifier Recommended Annual Maintenance

Monday, April 2, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Recommended Annual Maintenance

  • The water panel should be changed once a year, with a few exceptions.
    • The model 400 has a panel that should be changed twice a season
    • If extremely hard water is used in any Aprilaire humidifier, the panel should be changed more frequently than once a season. 
    • The water panel cannot be cleaned because it has a special coating that helps the water adhere to the panel while the air is passing through it.  Without the coating, more water will go down the drain and less will be converted into a vapor.
  • Drain line
    • Detach the drain line from the drain spud at the bottom of the unit. 
    • Bend it at the various points to loosen calcium deposits which may have formed on the inside of the line, and flush it with pressurized water. 
    • You can also pour bleach through it prior to the water.  This will kill any micro-organisms that happen to be living in the drain line. 
    • The drain line can be replaced should it prove difficult to clean. 
  • Feed tube
    • Detach the tube from the nozzle at the top of the unit, and unscrew the end of the solenoid valve at the other end of the feed tube. 
    • Run high pressure water through the tube and replace. 
    • When reconnecting the feed tube, remember to double wrench the connections to prevent leaking.
  • Inside of unit
    • Look for any mineral deposits on the Scale Control Insert after removing the water panel, and get rid of them by wiping the insert with a damp towel or rag.  They should come right off. 
    • If there are deposits on the inside of the cover, or in the case of a 700, on the fan blade, it may be indicative of a larger problem known as entrainment.  ()
    • Do not remove granulated coating on the distribution tray – not an issue with the new ones. 
      • The granular coating is there to break up the surface tension of the water.  This allows water to flow evenly through all of the openings in the water distribution tray. 
      • The newer trays have a fabric along the bottom of the tray which does the same thing as the granular coating.  The difference is the customer doesn’t have to worry about scraping off the fabric.
  • Hard or Soft Water
    • Aprilaire offers total flexibility in the installation of our humidifiers in that they will operate properly with either hard or soft water. Connecting to hard water may leave mineral deposits on the water panel that are scaly and hard in nature. Connecting to soft water may leave mineral deposits that are fluffier in nature. The bottom line is the water panel will typically last a full heating season using either type of water.  When extremely hard water is used in the humidifier, maintenance should be performed approximately every six months. 

Aprilaire Model 5000 EAC Air Cleaner is humming?

Thursday, March 29, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Consumer question:

Why I started to hear humming noise when I turn on the Aprilaire Air Cleaner model 5000? The technician from Sears helped me to replace the filter in December 2011, but shortly after that, I start to hear this annoying noise and worry about the possible health risk it prsents to my family.

Does this electric humming/hissing really matter to human health? If so, whom should I contact?

 

Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for your email regarding your model Aprilaire Electronic air cleaner.
Under normal operation there is electricity passing through the door of the model 5000 into the cabinet just like a plug into an outlet. This can sometimes be audible but it does not pose any health risks.

If you are feeling that the noise is coming from the HVAC equipment call your HVAC specialist and have them give us a call when they are looking over the equipment.

 

Aprilaire model 1700 Dehumidifier, new drain line?

Monday, March 26, 2012 by Aprilaire Team
Consumer question:
 
Our drain line is leaking and a replacement line is to be installed. I have purchased a braided vinyl hose thinking it would be more durable in an attic. Internal diameter of hose is 1/2 inch, and out diameter is 3/4 inch. Will this fit the Aprilaire 1700? Thank you for the information.

Aprilaires' respone:

Thank you for your question regarding the Aprilaire model 1700 dehumidifier.

You dehumidifier should have a fitting attache to the end of the PVC drain pipe to allow for connecting your 1/2 inch braided drain hose. We recommend that a consistent downward slope to the drain be ensured to prevent water from remaining in the hose, once the unit has shut off. The drain hose should be inspected for cracking every year to prevent leaks and associated water damage.

Thank you for choosing Aprilaire in your home comfort system.

 

There's a knock whenever the humidifier comes on or shuts off. What is the cause?

Wednesday, March 7, 2012 by Aprilaire Team

Consumer question:

There's a knock whenever the humidifier comes on or shuts off. What is the cause?

Aprilaires' response:

Thank you for contacting us with regards to your model 700 Humidifier. The noise you hear is the humidifier's solenoid valve (water valve) opening or closing. Normally, this valve makes a slight 'click' noise when doing this, but water pressure and the build up of water scale inside the unit can increase this noise. As a test, try turning off the water to the humidifier and then use the humidistat to turn the humidifier on and off. Listen for changes in the noise. Typically, the noise is quieter without any water pressure, but pressure is required to feed the correct amount of water through the unit.
Speak to your contractor about possible remedies if the noise becomes excessive. Anything from cleaning the valve to adding sound-insulating foam rubber to the valve can help dampen the nosie. In some cases, replacing the copper tubing with steel-braided rubber tubing or installing a shock-arrestor can help dampen the noise by absorbing the impact the water makes when the valve closes.