Consumer question:
I am looking to purchase a standalone high capacity dehumidifier for our basement 30 x60 non ducted.
What of your units do you suggest?
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us with regards to our Aprilaire Dehumidifiers. Based on your criteria, we would recommend the model 1710A. It has the moisture removal capacity for spaces up to 5000 sq ft and does not require any ducting. It is rated for 90 pints/day. Please see the attached brochure for more information.
We appreciate the opportunity to be of assistance.
Consumer question:
I have a 2400 sq ft home 10 ft ceilings with 1700 sq ft developed in basement. Will the 800 steam unit provide adequate protection with hardwood floors throughout.
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting Aprilaire.
Yes, the 800 steam humidifier should be able to properly humidify your home. Actually the 800 is capable of humidifying larger areas, but that would be good anyway since the needs for humidity in your home are greater than an average home. We say this because of the extra woodwork having hard wood floors throughout the home. This will grab alot of the moisture.
There will be no 'over kill' because once you reach the RH level you are looking for, the humidifier will turn off.
Please let us know if you have any further questions.
Consumer question:
I need to know what the difference is between the 1770A and the 1750A?
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for your interest in the Aprilaire line of dehumidifiers.
The physical dimensions of the two units are the same, the 1750A weighs 93 pounds, the 1770A weighs 100 pounds, The 1750A will remove up to 90 pints per day whereas the 1770A removes up to 135 pints per day.
Consumer question:
Of the aprilaire 400 500 or 600,700, etc... which one do you think is right for me?
I have a home that is 2000 sf finished with an additional 1100 sf of basement which is unfinished now but will be in the future.
How do you account for basement in sf of humidification?
Which Aprilaire should I go with?
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting Aprilaire.
Based on the information that you have given us, it looks like the 600 would probably be the best choice. Now, with that said, do you have a lot of wood in your home? Like, wood floors, a lot of wood trim, instruments like a fine guitar or piano? This all would need much moisture in the air to keep them nice. That will make a difference in which unit would be best.
As for the basement.... you may not have it 'finished' yet, but the air is exchanging from main floor to basement much that it would through an open window. So, yes, that space will need to be included in configuring your humidifier.
If you do not have the extra wood floors, trim, or instruments, you would be fine with a 600. If you have the extras, you may want to consider going with a steam unit #800. That will guarantee coverage for the wood and comfort of your family.
Please let us know if you have any further questions.
Consumer question:
We have just had our basement waterproofed and we are going to have a dehumidifier installed that will benefit the whole house. At the same time we have this humidifer on our furnace that we turn on in the winter when the heat is on. Will there be a conflict if the dehumidifier is taking moisture out of the house and the humidifier is putting moisture into the house. How do these to items work together?
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us with regards to your model 560 Humidifier. Our humidifiers and dehumidifiers each have a control that tries to keep the humidity above or below a certain value. When operating both types of unit in the same home, we recommend that the two controls be set so that their set points do not overlap. For example, a humidifier can be set up to 45% RH, so the dehumidifier should not be set to go below 50%. This way a buffer exists between the two units and they should not fight against each other. Conversely, you could simply turn off one unit during its off-season. Dehumidifiers don't need to run during the winter or humidifiers during the summer.
Consumer question:
I just had my model 800 installed today. The technician went over everything regarding adjusting the level based on outside temperature. However, currently we are still using are air conditioner. Reading your manual doesn\'t clearly address this situation. Should I actually turn the humidifier off during the months that the air conditioner is running. If not, what is the best setting for the humidifier?? The tech left it at about a setting of 5-6. Thanks
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us regarding your model 800 humidifier. Typically when the air conditioning is running, the humidifier will not be used because the natural humidity level is higher than that which the humidifier will produce. If you choose to use your humidifier year round because you live in a drier climate, you can but some of the moisture put into the air would be removed by your air conditioning system. If it is not necessary to add humidity during the months your air conditioning is running, simply turn the control knob on the humidistat to the lowest setting. It is not necessary to turn the unit off.
If the control is left in the normal range of 5 or 6 and there is not a call for humidity for 72 hours, the 800 will automatically go into a drain cycle to drain the water from the canister. However the unit will still be on and if the humidity drops below the setpoint you're asking it to maintain, the humidifier will fill the canister and begin making steam. In other words, the only time you ever need to turn the 800 off is when you change the canister. Other than that, the operation of the unit can be controlled by the humidistat.
The manual doesn't address that mainly because the humidifier will not operated during the summer months in most parts of the country. In your case, living in Utah, it is perfectly fine to leave the humidistat on the setting of 5 or 6 and allow the 800 to add humidity, if needed, year round. If you prefer not to have the unit running with the air conditioning, turn the control knob to the lowest setting.
If you have any further questions regarding this or any of our products, please feel free to contact our customer service department at your earliest convenience.
Consumer question:
I very recently bought the 1710A dehumidifier. I\'m concerned that it was the wrong product for my house though. I would like to discuss with someone whether the 1710A is a good solution for a finished basement (i.e. can it work through the walls to individual rooms in the basement) or if a whole house/central air solution would be more appropriate (and if so, general costs). The purchase is still recent enough that I should be able to return the 1710A model.
Aprilaire's response:
Thank you for contacting us about your 1710A dehumidifier.The 1710A is a great portable unit for use in spaces that are open and have good air flow from room to room. If your space is sectioned off into separate rooms that can be closed off from each other than the 1710A will not work as effectively as you might like.
In these situations we recommend going with a whole-home unit such as the 1750A. The 1750A would connect to your duct work and dehumidify the home equally. This may be your better option. The 1750A should cost about the same as the 1710A but there would be a charge for a dealer to install it. I would recommend contacting a dealer about installation prices.
Please contact us at 1-800-334-6011 for any further questions.
Consumer question:
I am looking at installing a dehumidifier in our 3300 sqft two story house (currently have one in crawl space) located in southern Maryland. My objective is to keep the house at a higher temperature ~76-77F and lower 45%RH; this way the dehumidifier is running versus the a/c to hopefully reduce electrical costs while maintaining comfort. And I am looking at the 1730A and 1750A and had a few questions and hope you can help me. My questions are:
1. I am currently running a portable Whirlpool 50 pint dehumidifier, and a few ceiling fans on slow and it seems to be keeping the humidity at the set 45%RH throughout the whole house (running most all of the time). I was looking at the 1730A or 1750A and was planning on installing it in a closet on the first floor. The ducting would enter the unit from one room (through closet wall) and exit into another room (through opposite closet wall) in a straight line near the center of the house. Would there be a concern of the closet heating up too much or any other issues? The drain line would go through the floor into the crawl space and be pumped out. (The closet currently has an electric water heater in it that I am removing so I will have a electrical outlet in the closet).
2. Based on literature the 1750A seems to be quieter than the 1730A, is this true, even though the CFM seem to be higher? If there is a foot of ducting at the inlet and a foot of ducting at the outlet would the unit tend to be noisier than if the 10 foot that appeared to be recommended in the literature for proper static pressure?
3. Is this a proper application since I have two a/c units with three controlled zones? I was trying to keep the dehumidifier independent from the a/c but is this a bad idea or not recommended?
4. I have drawing up the installation plan and mechanically everything should install fine. Do you see any issues that I may be missing? Is the 1750A recommended over the 1730A for this application? Is further information needed? Can a controller be hooked up to the unit to be put on the room wall to control the unit from outside the closet?
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for your questions about the Aprilaire dehumidifiers. The questions are very good questions, and I will give you the best answers possible.
For your home in southern Maryland the 1730A would be capable of dehumidifying up to 1800 sqft in a newer home; compared to the 1750A which can dehumidify up to 2600 sqft. The dehumidifiers can operate in ambient conditions up to 105F degrees. With the air flowing through the unit I don't feel that this would adversely effect the operation of the unit.
As for the noise rating of the equipment yes the 1750A is quieter by 3-4 dba primarily due to the fan configuration. As for the noise level in the shorter duct, you can expect to have wind noise on the shorter runs. Try to have a minimum of 6 feet of duct to attenuate the noise.
Your closet configuration does appear to be appropriate. Piping the drain into the crawl space would be fine into a floor drain or sump crock.
Both dehumidifiers can be used as "whole house" connected to HVAC systems or "stand alone" without connection to HVAC systems. Controls can be connect to remotely operate the dehumidifiers, but in this application I don't see any advantage to them.
The only additional information that I can suggest is that approximately 18 inches be open around the unit for access to internal components, when the need arises.
Again thank you for considering the Aprilaire line of products.
Consumer question:
Recently I had central air conditioning installed on my hot air furnace. After installing the coil the contractor found that there was no room left to reinstall the Aprilaire 550 whole house humidifier on the supply side. He then installed it on the return side just before the Hepa air filter cartridge. He ran an aluminum circular flexible duct over to the supply side.
I have concerns about this:
1) won't this simply force water into my hepa filter and create mold /mildew in it?
2) By the contractor running the flexible circular ductwork over to the supply side - is this sufficient to force all the available water moisture coming from the Aprilaire unit into the supply ductwork?
3) Should the unit now be attached to the hot water line instead of the cold water line?
4) Considering the lack of room to install on the supply side [since the a/c coil has been installed] is there any other more preferable place to install this uni
t other than the return side - and risk soaking the Hepa cartridge air filter?
Thank you for your time and consideration on these critically important matters.
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us about your humidifier and addressing these issues with us. I'd be happy to explain what can be done here.
1) It is ok for the humidified air to be introduced ahead of the filter. This is because our humidifier is creating a vapor. Vapor is just like the moisture already in the air. Its invisible, light and cannot condense onto anything such as the filter media or the duct work itself.
2) The beauty of our by-pass humidifier models is that the force will be equal no matter which side the unit is installed on. This is because force from the furnace is the same regardless of any new add-ons.
3) Cold water may be ok. If you have a standard furnace and only run the humidifier when the heat is on than cold water is okay. The only time cold water would be bad would be in situations where you run your fan to try and humidify (no heat source in this application).
4) Referring back to question 1, If the supply side is not available and return side is a equal alternative. Air flow will still allow the air to circulate through the air filter without harm and will continue to create and obtain the adequate humidity you are looking for.
If you have any questions please give us a call @ 1-800-334-6011.
Consumer question:
My engineering firm is designing a whirlpool room at a retirement community. Can the 1770a be used with a fan powered Air Terminal Unit, sometimes called a VAV box but in our case it will be constant air flow. If so, and it seems to me that it would work very well, is there a minimum cfm that the air terminal unit must supply for the 1750A or 1770A to work correctly?
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us with regards to our model 1770A Dehumidifier. Our dehumidifiers supply their own blower to move air. While they would work with the system you've designed, it can also work as a stand-alone system. Our concern would be the application, however. Our Aprilaire Dehumidifiers are not designed to work in pool applications. As they often use chemicals to treat the water, when they become airborne, they can corrode the circuit boards inside the dehumidifier. Unless the application will be using a non-chemical based water treatment system, we would not recommend any Aprilaire unit to provide the dehumidification needed. If it is using an alternative method to treat the water, we can offer suggestions based on the size of the application. Please let us know if we can be of further assistance.
Consumer question:
I have a small basement apartment where we installed a Model 8100 ventilation system because the apartment was always dank smelling and there is always a humidity problem. The ventilation system went a long way to cure the problem but there is still a humidity problem. I\'m thinking of having one of your dehumidifier systems installed as well. Would the dehumidifier run in line with the ventilation system? It would seem like I\'m dehumidifying the outside air as it comes in. Would I be dehumidifying the air already in the apartment as well? I understand I have a less than optimal situation in this basement apartment but Im trying to make it better than it is.
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us about your interest in our Aprilaire dehumidifiers.The Dehumidifier would compliment the ventilation system while dehumidifying the whole apartment. The Dehumidifier attaches its inlet side to the Return (cold) air side and the outlet side attaches to the Supply (hot) side of your furnace. The dehumidifier would be wired into your HVAC system to periodically turn on to dehumidify. Since the 8100 is in line with this set-up, you would be dehumidifying fresh outside air along with inside air. Although, the unit will be "working" a bit harder because the 8100 is introducing fresh air, it will still help to bring down the humidity levels to something more comfortable.
Please let us know if you have any questions.
I'm a bit of a social media/tech nut. I love watching (and let's be honest being active in) Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn, etc. change the world. And further, I love that my smart phone can track and post to it all now. My mother, in her infinite wisdom commented that the day would come people forget life without smart phones. I'm already there.
I stumbled on a crazy app today for Droid phones called
"Allergy Tracker." I have spring time allergies that are really just starting to subside as summer rolls in, so I wouldn't really need the app right now, but since I'm still so close to that dreadful time of year, I was intrigued. Essentially the app creates a network of people who 'touch inform' the app about their allergy conditions. The app locates you every time you tap into it, and effectively tracks allergen levels by creating a real time allergy map from everyone's responses. Pretty sweet, but does it work?
By the looks of it the answer has to be - not really - bummer. With some horrible reviews, I won't be downloading the app, however it does bring up a good point - if you have allergies, your best weapon is
information. While we're never going to be able to stop allergens from existing in general, there
are things we can do to keep them from existing in our homes, but you've got to be informed. It's easy to see these small air purifiers and see a solution, but fixing a room isn't as good as fixing your home. There are better, holisitic solutions for your home. Central Air Filters, dehumidifiers, and humidifiers all have their place in fixing your indoor air quality problems.
Check out the informational link from eMedicine health and then some information from us at Aprilaire. After all, information is your best weapon.
eMedicine health
http://www.emedicinehealth.com/indoor_allergens/article_em.htm
Aprilaire
http://www.aprilaire.com/index.php?znfAction=IAQ&category=filtration
Consumer question:
I am looking for a new dehumidifier for my basement and want to
buy a product made in the USA. Aprilaire seems to be the only company that
fits the bill. However, it seems you only make one dehumidifier and that is
a "whole house" model which I would think would be more expensive than the
small, portable model I am looking to replace the LG model in my basement.
Aprilaires' response:
We actually have four models of dehumidifiers. Please review
this brochure that discusses our different models. It also will help you decide which unit is best for your needs.
To find a dealer near you to assist you with this unit purchase and installation, you may go to
aprilaire.com and put your Zip code into the place to "find aprilaire dealer".
Consumer question:
I have a new 3 bay garage . It can become very humid. I believe that the tight construction allows humidity to build up and coat surfaces with moisture once the temperature changes.
The garage is 32 feet by 40 feet with ceiling heights from 11 feet to 14 feet.
A propane fired 95% efficiency heater is being installed with the return on the unit and a simple row of supply vents from one large duct running the width of the rear wall at the ceiling.
Will your unit 1750 dehumidify, both winter and summer, this size garage?
Aprilaires' response:
Based on the dimensions you list, the garage is equivalent to a 2000 sq ft space. The 1750A dehumidifier can control up to 5000 sq ft. Other factors that must be taken into consideration are the tightness of the space, how quickly air infiltrates, and climate.
Primarily, our dehumidifiers are for summertime usage, taking 65° to 85°F air and lowering the humidity into the 45% to 55% range. Wintertime humidity can be much lower, but due to the outdoor conditions, still create condensation. For most wintertime humidity issues, we recommend a ventilation option. If your wintertime conditions are more like the summertime conditions described above, the dehumidifier can still have an impact lowering the humidity.
Please let us know if you have any further questions.
Consumer questions:
700a, 700m 700...Aprilaire Power Humidifiers so then, where does the Model 700 come in?...how is it diff from the 700M and 700A
Sears installed aprilaire 700a (as a replacement under maintenance agreement) and for the first few weeks it seemed to run constantly. Now, despite very cold outdoor temps, it hasn't come on to for a single drop of water onto the drain for about a week. Sears serviceman says thats because my house has attained sufficien t moisture. I find that hard to believe as we are back to dry skin, hair etc and a very dry atmosphere. Please advise.
Aprilaires' response:
The Models 700, 700A and 700M are the same model.
The difference is with the controls. The 700M comes with a manual humidistat that can be duct or wall mounted. When using a manual control, you would be responsible for setting the humidity level morning and night according to the day time high and night time low temperatures.
The 700A Model was a promotional unit that was introduced in October 2007 when this new style was first released. The promotion included not only a digital automatic control that can be duct mounted only, but also included an extra water panel for the second season as well as a dvd, a weather station and a letter from our company president. The digital control will allow you to set and forget. With the assistance of an outdoor temperature sensor, the control will automatically adjust the indoor humidity level according to the outdoor temperature. When the promotion ended, we dropped the letter "A" and removed the extra water panel, weather station, dvd and the letter. The 700 and the 700A are the same unit with the same digital control.
Thank you for this opportunity to be of assistance.
Consumer question:
Will one Aprilaire Dehumidifier cover my whole home? If humid air rises why install in downstairs? Wouldn't it be better to install upstairs.
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us about your dehumidifier questions. Your logic does make sense in wanting to add a dehumidifier upstairs. However, humidity starts in areas that are darker and with less air movement which are usually basements. If the unit is put upstairs than we are simply containing the humidity level upstairs and not at the root source down stairs. If you can keep the humidity contained downstairs than the upstairs levels will not "see" this humidity.
Consumer follow up question:
Ah yes for Basements that makes sense. I live in Texas and have a two story home on slab. Upstairs is two bedrooms and a full bath. Down stairs is master bed, master bath, kitchen, living room, and dining room. Upstairs is about 800 sq ft and down stairs is about 2000 sq ft, probably about 300 sq ft of conditioned attic space. I have a sealed attic that has been foamed in. I need to install a dehumidifier before summertime or I will have moisture issues. If I install a dehumidifier downstairs it will have to be a stand alone unit, probably in living room or dining room. If I install ,either whole house system or stand alone, upstairs I can install in sealed attic and duct it to the two upstairs bedrooms. I cannot run any new duct work to the down stairs due to the layout of the two story home.
My only other option is a whole house system ducted into my central HVAC system. The HVAC is installed in the sealed attic. The main return from downstairs and the two from upstairs, one in each bedroom, all connected from duct work to into a plenum on the air handler. The outlet plenum is connected to the opposite side of the air handler and runs duct work all back through the house. If I connect the inlet from the whole house system into the return and the outlet into the main side how does the system no just cycle air around the shortest path through the air handler when it is not on? Path of least resistance! Also when the air handler is on wouldn't the pressure from the outlet side of the HVAC try to cycle air backwards in the dehumidifier?
That is the reason for the moist air rising question. any suggestions would be grateful.
Aprilaires' follow up response:
In your situation, you only option will be to install a dehumidifier to the central HVAC system. By doing this, you will dehumidify any humid air that raises from the basement area. This will still dehumidify the basement area too. The way this will be done will be a result of how the upper level are being dehumidified. By lowering the humidity levels in the upper levels this will allow the basement humidity to raise quicker because humidity is displaced to areas that are less humid. In this case, the dehumidified upper levels.
With the dehumidifier ducted to the HVAC system and tied into the fan, the issue of "path of least resistance" is not a factor. Reason being is because the force of the air will push the air around the home at a certain CFM. Some area's may receive air that is dryer than others but this air will even out over time.
Consumer question:
Have 800 sq. ft. basement area under garage with concrete walls. ceiling and floor. Area is separate from remaining basement. Very humid !! Considering Aprilaire 1750 so later may tie in to house duct system. What accesories are needed so can control in separate area of basement? What other products or suggestions.
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us about your interest in our dehumidifiers. In most situations like yours where you are looking to start with the basement and then add the unit to the existing duct work, we recommend leaving the unit as a stand-alone unit and then add it to the duct work later.
The only things needed for using it as a stand alone unit would a 120V power source and a drain. When you plan on adding this to your duct work you will need to add the proper amount of 8" flex or ridged duct. If you'd like to switch between the basement and whole home, this can be done by adding a damper to the duct work. I'd recommend a HVAC company help you with this.
Consumer question:
Will one Aprilaire Dehumidifier cover my whole home? If humid air rises why install in downstairs? Wouldn't it be better to install upstairs.
Aprilaires' response:
Thank you for contacting us about your dehumidifier questions. Your logic does make sense in wanting to add a dehumidifier upstairs. However, humidity starts in areas that are darker and with less air movement which are usually basements. If the unit is put upstairs than we are simply containing the humidity level upstairs and not at the root source down stairs. If you can keep the humidity contained downstairs than the upstairs levels will not "see" this humidity.
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